Audio GuideColoured Houses of Balat

Balat Renkli Evler is found on the European side of Istanbul, tucked between the historic neighbourhoods of Ayvansaray and Fener, close to the calm banks of the Golden Horn. The name Balat is rooted in the Greek word for palace, “palation”. This is a reminder of the area’s proximity to the grand Byzantine Blachernae Palace. When you wander into Balat, it feels as if you are travelling back in time. Each winding street carries echoes of generations long past, shaped by countless lives and stories.

Svetla

From the late fifteenth century, Balat became a refuge for Sephardic Jews escaping the Spanish Inquisition. They were welcomed by Sultan Bayezid. These newcomers arrived with a rich culture—that is, the smell of fresh boyoz in the streets, the distinctive flavours of their breads, and a heritage that shaped the buildings around them. Jewish residents built houses with three floors. These houses were marked by slender, animated facades and bay windows peering onto the curving roads. Over the years, Armenians, Greeks, and Turks joined them. Each group brought their own faiths and ways of life. The area quickly became known for its mix of synagogues, churches, and mosques. Today, you can still find the Ahrida Synagogue—one of the oldest in the city—the grand Aya Triada Greek Orthodox church, and the Kethüda Mosque, which is a work of the renowned Ottoman architect Sinan.

Simone Massagrande

All these communities gave Balat its unique multicultural character. A hundred years ago, more than thirty thousand people called these streets home. Among them were Jewish textile makers, Greek fishermen, Armenian metalworkers, and Turkish bakers living side by side. Fires changed the neighbourhood from time to time, but Balat’s spirit endured. Houses were rebuilt and painted in cheerful hues of red, blue, and yellow. This created the now-iconic Renkli Evler—the “Colourful Houses”.

But Balat is not just about the past. In the morning, the aroma of pastries drifts through the air. By midday, you might catch the flavour of grilled sardines. Local cafés serve menengiç coffee, with its distinctive nutty taste, while antique shops offer treasures from eras gone by. The area’s bustling lanes, draped with washing lines and full of light, inspire artists and photographers alike.

Beyond Balat Renkli Evler, you can explore crumbling synagogues, elegant Greek schools, and the remains of the old Blachernae Palace. Balat opens onto the Golden Horn, where the waters mirror both day and night. The past is ever-present within the flow of modern Istanbul. In every stone, every fragrance, every dish, Balat tells the true story of a city shaped by many worlds.